APPLICATIONS OF COSMECEUTICALS

Antimicrobial action
     Skin conditions such as acne are often of microbial origin, resulting in inflammation and discoloration. Herbal extracts such as curcuminoids, rosemary antioxidants, green tea catechins, alantolactones etc. have the ability to inhibit the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi and certain viruses.

Anti-irritant/Anti-inflammatory action
     Irritation and inflammation of the skin are essentially reactions induced by chemicals, environmental pollutants, sunlight and other factors. Anti-inflammatory agents such as BoswellinÓ and curcuminoids inhibit the action of pro-inflammatory enzymes thereby preventing inflammation. Additionally, BoswellinÓ and ursolic acid also inhibit the enzyme human leukocyte elastase which catalyzes rupture of the cell membranes in inflamed tissues. These compounds therefore help to inhibit inflammation and maintain structural integrity.

Free-radical scavenger action (Antioxidant)
     Free radical chain reactions are implicated in most degenerative biological reactions. Free radicals on the surface of the skin therefore catalyze aging. Antioxidants such as curcuminoids and green tea catechins scavenge free radicals, thereby preventing their formation. Additionally, curcuminoids also inhibit the propagation of free radicals. These antioxidants are therefore useful in anti-aging formulations and in formulations designed to maintain general skin health and integrity. Additionally, these antioxidants also help to maintain the integrity of fat-based topical formulations.

Skin-bleaching action
     Darker skin tones, patches and blemishes result from increased formation of melanin and slow breakdown of pre-formed melanin on the surface of the skin. Some herbal extracts and phytonutrients regulate the overproduction of melanin through inhibition of the natural enzyme in the skin, tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production. Some antioxidant compounds also help to break down pre-formed melanin.

Maintenance of skin texture
     Aging of the skin is a cumulative effect influenced by factors such as environmental pollution, chemicals, and atmospheric temperature fluctuations The major contributor to skin damage is exposure to sunlight. Ultraviolet A and B radiation from sunlight penetrate the skin and accelerate damage due to free radicals. With prolonged exposure to sunlight, the collagen and elastin fibers which maintain the elasticity and integrity of the skin are broken down by the enzymes collagenase and elastase and the skin texture deteriorates. Herbal extracts and nutrients such as ursolic acid and rosemary extract which inhibit these enzymes and promote collagen and elastin synthesis therefore help to maintain the integrity of the skin Such products are therefore useful in preventing wrinkling and aging and in improving the appearance of photoaged skin. Other compounds that help in improving appearance and texture include alpha-hydroxy acids and aleuritic acid. These compounds accelerate exfoliation thereby helping to soften hardened skin areas.

GENERAL MECHANISMS OF COSMECEUTICAL ACTION

• Prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin, proteins that maintain the structural integrity of tissues
• Enhance healthy cells proliferation
• Facilitate tissue repair

Sabinsa Corporation supplies several ingredients for use in topical formulations. These include fine chemicals and herbal extracts.

• Alpha Lipoic Acid
• Arjunolic Acid 80%
• Boswellin® CG (Patent Pending)
• CococinT (Patent Pending)
• Centellin® Extract CG
• ForsLean® CG (Patented) ( www.forslean.com )
• Coleus Forskohlii Oil (Patented)
• Cosmoperine® (Patent Pending)
• Galanga Extract
• Green Tea CG
• Licorice Extract CG (4% Glabridin)
• Lupeol 80%
• Neemoids® (Neem Oil Limonoids)
• Oleanolic Extract 80%
• Olive Leaf Extract (Oleuropein 80%)
• Policosanol
• Rosemary Extract CG
• Rosmarinic Acid 90%
• Sapindin®
• Tetrahydrocurcuminoids (Patented) ( www.tetrahydrocurcuminoids.com )
• TetraWhite
• Turmeric Oil
• Ursolic Acid 80%
• Venocin® 90% (Horse Chestnut Extract)
  ( www.venocin.com )
• Ximenynic Acid 90%